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Question, why don't you put mudguards??

i had same scooter. display didnt turn on scooter didnt move then i discoverd back of the suspension there was a hole where all the water and humidity access in battery and some wires were oxidized. but it was a great scooter

Of you need something let me know. And I still need the 5 gear !mine is making noise when I put it in . Regards Bram

What a crummy place to spend the winter. have to admit cool people.

You can skim a head yourself using a piece of sand paper on a piece of glass bigger than your head, since glas is perfectly flat. I like the old none electric diesel engines myself. There was a guy in Macclesfield not to far from Leicester who holds a patent on cleaning waste vegetable oil using beef gelatin then running his Peugeot xud diesel on a mix of 10-50 % waste oil to paraffin. Mr muscle oven cleaner is good at removing carbon deposits although other oven cleaners probably work too. I've used to clean diesel intakes and turbochargers. Since most of the power is made from the cylinder head, you could consider port matching using the inlet & outlet gasket as a guide to removing material and remove the casting marks. The intake is filthy because you have an exhaust gas recirculation valve. Injectors on fully mechanical engines are easier to remove if the engine is up to temperature.

Ive stripped a few. Watch out for your tolerances when your cleaning. New piston rods is usually better. Heat is your friend. Good luck.

Its becoming a real hobby. 😂

you do relies that when you skim the head the vals wont be flush with the head......

You will work it out, can't wait to see the Ferrari on the road😉

Interesting video Ash. Look forward to following along with your progress. Take Care Bud 🙏

I don't know who reccomended to use any kind of sealing product/chemiweld equivalent but you are correct in that being very, very poor advice, you're smart enough to know why but it is absolutely not an acceptable fix and is a (poor) temporary fix that WILL cause degraded cooling system peformance and not fix the issue in a lasting manner. Doing something like that or a vehicle you care about particulalrly in the environment you need to operate these engines in would be moronic - you know this, good call mate.

You missed a trick there - if you had shown Marie how to do it she could have done the other two for you as spares 🙂

Diesel injectors can be utter bastards to remove, better done with the engine in the van tho.. I've seen a front wheels suspended a foot off the ground being held up by 1 injector attached to an engine hoist with a guy wailing on the engine with a rubber mallet and it still wouldnt' come out - they can be that stubborn lol

As long as it's the head gasket and not a cracked head like mine was, at least you have two spare heads. The new head bopped the price up for me. Still, I'll be glad when I get my van back, it's been gone just over 5 weeks now. Will be watching this one with keen interest mate.

Convert to xud9t or pd130 lol then again I’ve never known of many bad 2.0 hdi’s! Shit luck I suppose

I was thinking - for the price of a small stick with a plunger on you might as well lap the valves while you're in there - but you got there in a heartbeat 😁. I've a feeling I've just used metal polish in the past - although I've only been that deep into air cooled motorbike engines. Looks like fun - looking forward to seeing how you get on. Best of luck 👍

When you got the engine running again, spray water in to the engines intake with a flowersprayer every 10k Km or so, while the engine is running and are hot and nice. Dont be shy with the water. A liter is a good amont to be sprayed. The steam rinces out/ boils off, all the carbon from the cylinders, pistons, pistonrings and valves. 👍‍‍🌟👍‍‍

Buy some valve lapping paste and use a drilling/skrewingmachine to rotate the valves against the seats‍‍. Hold the valvestem with the chuck. It is important that the head of the valve are pointing down while grinding them in, so that no paste travels down the valve stems, and thereby hones up the (valve steering tubes) (I cant remember the correct English name). The paste is only 80kr on Biltema Artnr. 19-1383. // If you want to skim the top yourself, buy a descent sized piece of windowglass and glue sandpaper on rop. Windowglass are usually very very flat. And then move the top in figure eight on top of the glass/sandpaper. It can easily save you som thousands of SEK. Cheers my friend,, 🍻😎👍‍‍

The intake valves are coked up because of the EGR. You can actually skim the head yourself if you have a really flat block and fine emery. Put it around the block and go at it slowly until all the marks are gone. I've seen it done before. check it for flat with a steel ruler across it. also check the valves in the guides for lateral movement. Personally when i did mine i sent the head away with all the valves and had a machine shop skim it and re do the whole thing. got it back ready to fit. But that's the advantage of living near a big city. There's lots of places to do that reasonably cheaply. It's just big lego do one bit at a time and you'll be ok.

Keeping my fingers crossed for you buddy! You really deserve a break with this saga. You are nothing but a persistent bugger so I am sure it will be fine in the end. Oh and can't that local machine shop do the skim?

Spot on Ash, you never stop learning and your having fun while you are doing it and no pressures from the outside world to get in your way. Out of interest how far are these YT videos behind from today's date. You will probably find whoever skims the head will re seat the valves and carry out a leak test at the same time. Best Wishes AL

The machine shop will supply you with a thicker gasket to compensate for the skimming. Clearances will remain the same.

My dad (now in his 80's) would not hesitate to tackle something like this back in the day. And he frequently did. He was no mechanic - but I feel it was the mindset back then. He tought me that I can do anything with a can do attitude. Yes, you may not get it 100% right, but you will get it working - and if not you will get it working the next time. I'm sure a lot of our parents were like this. We changed engines together and lapped valves just like you are going to be doing. He was a member of his works "car club" where you could borrow all the tools you needed for the job and therefore save a lot of money and get advice. These car clubs don't exist nowadays (health and safety I imagine) but i wish they did. Lost count of the amount of tools i've bought and never used them again ha ha. Good effort Ash - can't wait to see the look on your face when its back in and fires up. You're going to feel like a million dollars mate. Enjoy! Ringo

You can hand plain the cylinder head ruclips.net/video/a8ctywVmzK0/видео.htmlsi=EYMShl5p2LclHnJs ruclips.net/video/HyKN52HD6RU/видео.htmlsi=AOGK8UUMUYlWWi1P

Nice one Ash....just booked my same van in for a new clutch/flywheel seals etc and two new front springs.... 170k miles....like you say where to stop? But the alternative is Euro 6 bollocks so I'll keep mine running as long as poss!!

god see you get vid out on channel you build the engen back up keep up the vids thank lee

It's known as decoking

Well titled 🤣

Nice puzzle, good to watch how you are fixing the engine😅

im pretty knowledgeable in these vans i literally rebuilt my whole van during covid. i had to rebuild the sills on mine. they looked ok from the outside but i saw some slight corrosion while i was working under it and went poking. it ended up being quite bad. but i welded it all up and its good now. so with the DW10 HDI (diesel variants with the turbo) you only need 3 working sensors to get them running. the cam, crank, and fuel rail pressure sensor. after its started and running it only needs the crank and fuel rail pressure sensors. so if you ever take the gearbox off take out the crank position sensor first!!! they are very easy to damage. its located just under the coolant channeling on the side of the engine above the bell housing it just needs a 10mm to do it. i cant stress enough about the cam belt. make sure you change it and the water pump too as it will give you a nice look inside the block. dish washer tablets broken up into powder and ran in the coolant system for a few days cleans it up lovely. just flush it a few times before you do you final coolant mixture. an element type block heater for some reason does make the coolant go dark if its old. dont forget to spray some WD40 on the glow plugs to hopefully get the freed up if you are changing them. the knocking noise when you start it will be the rear engine mount. no doubt the rocker cover gasket or turbo oil return is weeping. it drips right on it killing it. get some new right angle boost hose, replacing the 90 degree boost pipes coming off the intercooler. they are well known for splitting. mine did and its only got 100k miles on it. if you have ABS a clutch change is a nightmare, its pretty tough to do on these without ABS. the pump just gets in the way. dont undo the rear mounting bolts for the sub frame.. the captive nuts will break off and you will have a hell of a time trying to get them undone. undo the front sub frame bolts and use a crow bar to bend the subframe down. it will give you just enough space to get the gearbox in and out. while you have the gearbox out i advise to change the flywheel to a solid type and also change the main crank oil seal that lives behind the flywheel. its size is 90-7-110 with a Left-hand twist. though the twist not really that important. you do have enough space to get a 90-10-110 in which would be a double seal. whatever you can get more easy. i would also recommend changing the seals behind the cam belt too sadly i dont have the sizes to had. just the 2 important ones, crank and cam. oil leaks are a pain in the ass. my daily car is an old 1991 Fiat Panda 4x4. today i found out its main crank seal is weeping behind the flywheel. i can also tell you that "servicing" the EGR is quite easy to do while the gearbox is off too. ;) if you dont have to pass a NOX test that is. oh speaking of air system, for what they cost i would change the mass airflow sensor too. at its age i bet its giving the wrong readings. try going for a drive, then go for a drive with it unplugged if you find you have more power yeah its getting tired and needs changing. or just live with it unplugged if the EML is not a test failure. i know in the UK anything older than 2008 does not get tested on an illuminated EML. hope some of this autism dump helps you out. i could go on.. but if you want more info check out the dispatchexpertscudo forum. ill post the link in a reply to this comment in case it marks it as spam.

Sh*t happens mate. My old van (The one you sat in with the Martini racing decals) took a dump. I thought it was the head gasket but it ended up being a cracked head, costing me a small fortune to get sorted, I'm getting a few other things sorted out too. It's 31 years old and I was close to calling it quits but I just couldn't do that. Hopefully I'll get a few more good years out of it...probably silly, but hey! I like the old thing. It's a pity you can't get the van under some cover to work at, with the unpredictable weather and all that.

What's why I never own diesel, especially for long travel. It's cheaper to drive, but much expensive and more complicated to repair than old petrol. I once went to Germany form UK and had head gasket blown up on my vauxhall omega 2.0 liter. Did the head gasket overnight in my friends shed and went back home to UK without any issues. No way I could have done same with diesel engine.

You are maybe too young to remember there was a show on channel 4. Called scrap heap challenge the video brought it all back from 25/ 30 years ago 👀🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

what the hell youtube, this clip didn't show up in my subscription box, wonder if there are more people who have had this happen to them as the number of views is low

Are both head gaskets blown?

Lob some K seal in your van while you get one of your 'new' engines rebuilt...winter project perhaps?

It's great for content. I would convert and repair the long wheel base Peugeot. Pull out the big dents and paint with a hammered finish paint. You're capable of doing a head gasket due to your prior experience as a motorbike mechanic. It looks like you just us locking pins for timing and the engine/gearbox will come out through the front. Option B. You could create a series of motorbikes travels with a tent and making use of campsites. Option C. Share Marie's van. You clearly live together above the barn so I can't see why you couldn't e happy Sharing a van with Marie.

Go to Meca in Övik and buy the bottle head gasket repair-from Rislone ,ask Jurgen there he knows what I mean.tell him the one that Bram used.I did to cars with this and the are still running .

nice to see you back

i have no words , same thing hapened to our crafter , total night mare man i feel your pain

Got to be sods law. What about selling some parts to help get money to fix your original van Ant or is that a daft suggestion.

No hurry. Be happy😊

It would have been nice when there was more good on the vans:)

you get sorted keep up the good vids you do on channel thanks lee

You can guarantee that, of all the spare parts you scavenge off these two vans, you'll need something different on your crurrent van.

You will sort it mate .. All part of banganomics ...

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣